Champions of the Drought!

While everything else is struggling to stay alive (my last cucumber came out yellow), there are some plants that are thriving. These champs are out there soaking up the sun and surviving the 12.25" rainfall deficit. They are laughing at the wilting St. Augustine as they bloom and grow.

I've left out the obvious choices: Cactus and Agaves. Yes, we appreciate these guys and their hardiness, but sometimes you need a little color when everything is brown and crispy. My front yard is 100% sun. It bakes. So, it is truly survival of the fittest. Lantana and Salvia are obvious contenders, but even they are struggling to bloom this year. On this years honorable mention list are: Lantana, Salvia, Knockout Rose, and Crepe Myrtle.

So, drumroll please... My Top 5 Champions of the Drought 2011 are:

#5 Yellow Bells/Esperanza: Given just a little bit of water, the Yellow Bells will continue to provide showy blooms throughout the summer. I also love the bright green foliage of the Yellow Bells. Many desert plants tend to have minimal or muted foliage to conserve water in the heat, but the Yellow Bells have nice broad leaves and plenty of them. They are a wonderful choice for any landscape, as the cheery yellow looks beautiful against the reds, pinks, and purples of the Mexican Bush Sage, Plumbago, Knockout Rose, and next 4 Drought Champs.

#4 Firebush: The hardy Firebush seems to bloom even when weeds are keeling over in the heat. Once established, this plant is extremely drought and heat tolerant. My Firebush are struggling a tiny bit because they were planted in the summer of 2009 and since then we've had a drought, a wet and unusually cold winter, followed by a somewhat normal year, followed by a dry and unusually cold winter, followed by another drought. That's pretty tough for a new plant, but mine come back every year and continue to make a go at being permanent residents. However, I have clients with established Firebush in their landscapes that do wonderfully in these tough Texas summers.

#3 Flame Acanthus: These guys just grow and grow and grow. Even in the heat, when most plants are conserving under stress, my flame acanthus just continues to spread. It looks very similar to salvia, but with more slender and slightly pointed leaves. The tubular blooms are small and fiery red. It is extremely adaptable to most soil conditions and just seems to thrive no matter what you throw at it.

#2 Guara: These delicate beauties have understated foliage and pink or white blooms at the top of long stems that gently sway, top heavy, in the summer breeze. They will generally bloom from spring to fall. Group these in the garden for nice movement and a spot of subtle, yet vibrant, color.

#1 Pride of Barbados: This tropical plant and a member of the pea (!) family seems to do it's best when the going gets tough. It's brilliant red, orange, and yellow blooms are spectacular when just about everything else in our landscape has given up. I see these plants in full bloom in areas that clearly are not getting watered. Truly a champ, even this plant's species name, Caesalpinia pulcherrima, recognizes it's appeal, with pulcherrima meaning "very pretty". The P.O.B's foliage is very interesting and almost fern-like. In tropical climates, the Pride of Barbados will grow up to 15'-20' tall with the same measure in width. In our climate, however, it functions as a herbaceous perennial, returning in the late spring from roots. As of late, when I drive by one of these fellas in full bloom, I can't help but giving a small fist pump with a knowing nod. I try take some inspiration from the Pride of Barbados -- not just surviving, but thriving -- as I go from lawn to lawn in the brutal August heat.

SHE WHO PLANTS A TREE

SHE WHO PLANTS A TREE

There is fine patience and broad charity in the woman who plants a tree. No single action better typifies the real purpose of our living.

From the first tree has furnished man with shelter and fuel. Under its leafy dome the greatest charter of human rights has been signed; the world's greatest treaties have there been written; and the surrender of great armies has been concluded there. But for the tree, human history would be a thin tale soon told.

Beneath the tree the weary have rested and found strength and hope; there lovers have trysted ever since love first illuminated the world; and there children have played and restored it; to the soothing shade man ever has turned from his troubles and found calm and peace.

She who plants a tree may never enjoy its shade or gaze upon its full-grown splendor; but she is doing what she can to make the world a wholesomer and happier dwelling place for those who come after her.

She who plants a tree, plants shade, rest, love, hope, peace, for troubled ones who will come her way when she is gone.

There is nothing in which God asks so little of us, and gives so much, as in the planting of a tree. God gives the soil, the seed, the moisture, the sunshine, the air -- yes, and the selfless impulse to do our littler part of just planting it.

-- Charles Grant Miller, from "Country Life", Sept. 1910

Spring Lawn Care!

Spring is a comin'! And, that means its time to start prepping those lawns for the tough Texas summer. But, don't start thinking about those 107-degree days, just yet. Let's enjoy the spring and get to work in the yard.

First things first...winter weeds. If your lawn looks anything like mine, it's a nice light dormant-brown with some annoying green spots. Those annoying green spots are winter weeds and now is the time to tackle those suckers before the go to seed. I've put in a good five or six hours in the past couple weeks hand pulling all those little boogers. But, I know my window of opportunity is small before (1) they seed and (2) the St. Augustine starts really waking up making it harder to get to the weeds. In general, I like to hand-pull weeds. But, some lawns require more extensive measures. There are commercially available herbicides that are gentle on the environment when a heavier hand is needed to eradicate your weeds. Under no circumstances to I promote the use of "weed and feed" products. Weed and Feed is a subject for an entirely separate blog post, but if you are really curious, here's a good website from the City of Austin: http://www.ci.austin.tx.us/growgreen/weedandfeed.htm. But, in general, weed and feed is bad for the environment, pets, kids, trees, etc, etc. And, in general, the right time to weed (late winter) is not usually the right time to feed (spring). All around, weed and feed is a no-no. OK, that's enough of that.

So, that takes care of winter weeds. What about summer weeds? We have a short period of time to take care of those summer weeds by applying a pre-emergent. A pre-emergent prevents the dormant seeds left by last years summer weeds from rooting when they germinate in the spring. An excellent, natural pre-emergent is corn gluten meal. It is safe for kids, pets, and the environment. It is also a nitrogen fertilizer (9-0-0), so it provides some nutrients to your lawn, as well. Not five minutes after I applied corn gluten meal to my yard this weekend, the dogs were running around the yard and I was back on my hands and knees weeding. Your yard might smell like a bag of deer feed, but that's not always a bad thing. If you have not been using corn gluten meal, the first year's application is heavier than you will need in subsequent years (approximately 20 lbs per 1000 sq. ft.). Studies have shown that it reduces weeds by 50-60% the first year, with increasing reduction using just a maintenance application in following years.

So, we've addressed the weed problem. Now let's talk about encouraging a healthy, resilient lawn. One of the easiest things that you can do for your lawn is aeration and compost. Once your lawn comes out of dormancy and begins actively growing, it is time to aerate followed by a top dressing of compost. I use core aeration which actually removes small plugs of soil from the ground, creating space for air, water, and nutrients to enter the soil. Using an aerator with spikes creates holes, but only by compacting the soil around the hole. This is not the point of aeration. The top layer of compost acts as a gentle fertilizer providing nutrients for your lawn and improving the soil structure. Incidentally, the compost is also beneficial for the trees in your yard. A healthier lawn with a stronger root system will have a much better chance of withstanding drought and Texas heat. And, as your lawn starts growing, your watering routine in the spring can have great consequences on your lawns survival in the summer...but, more on that later.

These three simple steps can be taken easily and affordably on your lawn. In fact, this is exactly what I do for my own lawn. This weekend we saw that spring is right around the corner -- and then we were reminded that winter still has a little fight left in 'er (how about that cold front?!). So, before spring is in full force, let's get started on those lawns!

That's all for now. Happy Gardening!

Jeremiah

Pruning for Better Plant Health

Recently, I was doing some bedtime reading from one of my favorite gardening books, Doug Welsh's "Texas Garden Almanac", and decided to brush up on a very important, but often feared, subject: Pruning. We are approaching the ideal time of year for pruning, so it's a good time to start looking at your landscape for what needs to be pruned.

First, why prune? Plants get by just fine in nature without someone hovering over them with shears, right? And, in fact, plants left to their own devices will self-prune. Weak, diseased limbs will fall. Limbs growing in the wrong direction will be shaded from sun by better-placed limbs and will eventually be starved of light and nutrients. So, we just help our plants along to be healthier and stronger (and so that your tree doesn't self-prune itself over your new car). We also prune to encourage better growth and growth in the right direction.

So, when to prune? This all depends on the plant, but in general late winter to early spring is the best time to prune most plants, just before new growth appears. Right now most plants branches are bare of leaves, so it is easier to step back and see the general growth patterns of the plant and determine a good pruning plan. The least desirable time to prune is right after new growth appears. Large amounts of stored energy are spent on new growth and the new foliage should be allowed to restore food to the plant before being pruned. So, there is a distinct time frame in which to accomplish pruning, after which you could cause damage to the plant. However, there are specific rules for specific plants. Spring flowering shrubs and trees, like mountain laurel and redbud, should be pruned soon after blooming. These plants are flowering on last season's growth, so removing this growth would prevent those beautiful blooms. Summer flowering shrubs and trees, like crepe myrtles, flower on spring growth and should be trimmed in the winter.

We know when, but how? Different methods of pruning are appropriate for the different plants in your garden. Native perennials and ornamental grasses can be sheared off almost to the ground to encourage bushy full growth in the spring. Eventually, ornamental grasses will need to be divided and replanted. Woody shrubs can be thinned and shaped to encourage a desired aesthetic. For some plants, like roses, pruning is essential to the health of the plant.

No matter how you cut it, correctly executed pruning is a beneficial practice to establish in your garden and now is a good time for most of the plants in your garden to be pruned. So, grab those shears or give me a call and let's get those plants ready for a beautiful spring!

Happy gardening!

Jeremiah

Why do plants LOVE rain?

I've always been amazed by the incredible response that plants show when it rains. Spectacular blooms, neon green new growth...things that aren't accomplished through tap water alone. So why do plants LOVE the rain? I heard something interesting about this and did a little more research online.

Our atmosphere is mostly composed of Nitrogen (N) and Oxygen (O), approximately 78% and 21% by volume, respectively. During a thunderstorm, lightning strikes release enough energy in the atmosphere to allow Nitrogen and Oxygen to combine to form nitrates (NO3). Raindrops pick up the nitrates and deliver them to the ground. Nitrates are commercially produced as an important ingredient in fertilizer.

So, when it rains, your plants are essentially getting a nice application of natural fertilizer.

Enjoy the rain!

[On a side note, nitrates are also the component in fertilizer that creates algal blooms in water bodies...think of the green gunk floating in Barton Springs...when it is over applied and runs off into the storm drains during a rain. A very good reason to have someone knowledgeable working on your lawn.]

Heat? What heat? Let's get back outside!

Amazing how easily we forget. All it took was one week of sub-95 degree days for me to forget this summer's torturous heat. In fact, according to LCRA's meteorologist, Bob Rose, we are averaging 0.7 degrees below normal temperatures for this time of year. OK, I admit that doesn't sound like a big deal, but coming off of a record-breaking summer for above average heat I'll take what I can get!

But keep in mind that although we have gotten some respectable precipitation in the last couple weeks, we are still far away from breaking this drought. So, continue to be vigilant about water conservation and keep your fingers crossed that the predictions for El Nino will become a reality this fall. According to the National Weather Service's Climate Prediction Center, October is the first month to show predictions for above average rainfall. But for the time being, mandatory Stage II water restrictions are still in effect.

That being said, it's time to break away from the confines of the A/C and remember what we love about our gardens and lawns. Emerge, Austinites! Fall is on it's way! It's time to tackle that garden project you've been dreaming about.

And, guess what? We sure are lucky here in Texas because fall is ideal time to plant. While our northern brethren are packing up their trowels, we're just sweeping the cobwebs from the old tool shed to get to work. Plants roots grow anytime soil temperature is above 40-degrees Fahrenheit. So, think of how many Christmas days you've spent in a t-shirt and you'll realize that the plants you put in the ground now have a long time to establish strong roots. And, when spring hits your plants will be ready with a strong root system to explode in blooms and new growth. The same goes for container grown trees and shrubs. The mild temperatures and fall rain (hopefully!) will help the root ball break away from the confined pattern created by the container, making strong roots that are ready for spring. Fall is also the time to seed for wildflowers, so pay tribute to Lady Bird and grab a bag of fresh wildflower seed. Along with wildflowers, it is time to plant spring-flowering bulbs. In short, start looking at your garden and try to imagine what you want to see in spring. It's time now to start putting that vision to work.

Fall is also the time to start planning for cold protection. Some plants (not all) can be damaged by freezing temperatures, so it's good to have a plan in place so you aren't scrambling for mulch, cardboard boxes, and old sheets when you hear on the 6 o'clock news that the first freeze is happening tonight. "What was that plant we planted this spring? Which one is cold-tolerant? Honey, start Googling!" Let's prevent the panic and make some assessments now.

Even though we are still under water restrictions, your lawn should be doing more with less thanks to the change in weather. The cooler temperatures mean less evapotranspiration (cut by 1/2 to 1/3), so your soil is not being sucked dry, thus preventing the transport of nutrients to your lawn and plants. Save yourself some time and money and adjust your irrigation to compensate for this. Fall fertilization is coming up. St. Augustine should not be fertilized until it stops growing (in other words, when you stop cranking up the lawnmower every weekend). Judging by my lawn, it's getting close to this time. Buffalograss and Zoysia do not need fall fertilization, but will benefit from fertilization in late spring/early summer.

Everything in this post is deserving of its own post, so I'll be working on putting some more information up soon. But, in the meantime, let your imaginations go. Let's get started on a new project -- a vegetable garden, a new landscape bed, a new tree (we just planted a beautiful Burr Oak!), some fall colors, preparation for spring....the possibilities are endless. It's time to LOVE your yard again. Call me and we can get started!

Trees and the Drought

The record drought over the last two years has taken a toll on our water resources. With Lake Travis at its third lowest level since Mansfield Dam was constructed in 1941 and the City implementing Stage II Water Restrictions, water conservation is on every one's mind. Whether to save money or save the environment, many Austin area residents are watering less and letting their lawns and landscape decline. However, it is important to remember that these good intentions can have detrimental effects on our urban forest. It is one thing to replace your lawn or landscape, it is another thing entirely to lose a 200 year old live oak. As an aware citizenry, we can ensure that our urban forest continues to prosper and thrive for future Austinites!

The City's Watershed Protection Department is urging residents to be mindful of tree health until the rain starts falling again. Here are a few tips from the City Arborist's Office (or read the entire release):

• Focus on watering more mature trees, very young trees, trees suffering from pests or disease, or any trees showing signs of stress.
  
• Look for signs of stress and decline such as leaves wilting, turning brown, or dropping early or branches dying
• How often? Water at least every two weeks, without significant rainfall.
• When? To limit the amount water lost to evaporation, water between 7 pm and 7 am.
• How much? In general, for each inch of trunk diameter (width across at knee height) the tree needs about 10 gallons of water. So, for a 20" tree, you will need to water 20 x 10 = 200 gal.
• You can determine your application rate by turning on your hose at a given pressure, then timing how long it takes to fill an empty 1 gallon milk jug. Multiply this time by the number of gallons and Viola! that's how long you need to have your hose on.
• OR, in general a hose at medium pressure will produce 10 gallons in 5 minutes. So, for your 20" tree you will need to water 20" x 5 = 100 minutes or 1 hour 40 min.
• Slower application rates are better because the water is able to infiltrate into the soil and be absorbed by the tree roots rather than running off.
• Don't forget to set a timer or some other reminder to avoid over watering and water waste.
• Where? Water under the tree's entire canopy (within the drip line) and avoid watering within 3' of the trunk. Root systems of very young trees (two yrs and less) are not yet developed, so water in the planing area.
• A 3-4" layer of hardwood mulch around your trees insulates the roots from the extreme heat and also retains water. Be sure to keep the mulch at least 6" away from the trunk of the tree to avoid moisture in constant contact with the trunk.
• And remember, be sure to follow the City's Stage II Water Restrictions or you could be handed a citation with a hefty fine!

If you run across problems watering your trees or you just need someone that keep track of a watering schedule, just contact me and I'd be glad to help out!

Happy Gardening and Watch our for your Trees!